Lower Receiver
343 products · page 1 of 12
The lower receiver is the serialized part of an AR-15: under federal law it is the firearm, so online orders ship to a licensed dealer (FFL), who does the background check before you take it home. A stripped lower receiver is the bare part and the cheapest way to start, but it needs a lower parts kit, buffer tube and stock; a complete lower comes assembled and ready for an upper. Most lowers are forged 7075-T6 aluminum, billet lowers add extras like ambidextrous (ambi) controls or a flared magwell, and polymer lowers save weight and money.
Compare prices from every store we track, filter by stripped or complete, and add one to your build: MyGunLab checks it against the rest of your parts.
Read our guide: How to Build an AR-15: Parts List, Tools & Steps
Lower Receiver: common questions
Do I need an FFL to buy a lower receiver?
Yes. The lower is the serialized, regulated part of an AR-15, so it ships to a licensed dealer, who runs the background check before you take it home. Your state may add its own rules.
Stripped or complete lower: which should I buy?
A stripped lower costs less and lets you choose every part (trigger, grip, stock), but you need a lower parts kit and a few tools. A complete lower is ready to go and the quickest way to finish a build.
What's the difference between forged and billet lowers?
Forged lowers are pressed from 7075-T6 aluminum and are the strong, affordable standard. Billet lowers are machined from a solid block, which allows extras like an integrated trigger guard, ambidextrous controls and a flared magwell.
Will any AR-15 upper fit my lower?
Mil-spec AR-15 uppers and lowers fit each other across brands, sometimes a little tight or loose. AR-10 (.308) uppers and most 9mm uppers need a matching lower.
What's the cheapest way to get an AR-15 lower receiver?
A stripped forged lower is the cheapest place to start. Sort this page by price to see the lowest current prices, and add the dealer's transfer fee when you compare.